Alimentos y bebidas
As previously mentioned, the ubiquitous and delicious Argentinean beef and plentiful, cheap red wine are a given favorite for any visitor. But here are a few of my other favorite food discoveries:• Potatoes: I was amazed at how many different ways Argentinians can fry potatoes: classic thin-cut French fries, waffle-style fries, and, my personal favorite, tortilla de papas – a pancake-like concoction of potatoes, eggs and cheese. I thoroughly enjoyed Don Julio’s version.
• Ice cream: The gelato-style ice cream or “helado” served in BA can be found all over the city and comes in a delectable array of colors and flavors. On a visit to Un Altra Volta in Recoleta, Caitlin sampled the passion fruit helado, which had a goldenrod hue and actually tasted like real fruit, as opposed to a laboratory approximation. I opted for a scoop of dulce de leche on top of a scoop of “banana split” (pictured below). It was rich and sweet, but not sickeningly so. Later, after lunch at Cafe Rivas in San Telmo, I tried the “crema americana,” a popular pick best translated as “vanilla,” but that doesn’t quite capture the flavor.
• Eggs and olives: Eggs and olives are two of my favorite foods. I eat an egg for breakfast every morning, and I sneak olives into pizza, pasta and salads whenever I can. In BA, it was a rare meal that did not incorporate one or, even better, both. At Cumana, I was delighted to discover green olives in my empanada and, at Pizzeria Guerrin, there were hard-boiled eggs in my empanada. At La Cholita, the fries came topped with a fried egg! The cold buffet at Rodizio, a Brazilian-style steakhouse, contained not one but two types of deviled eggs, as well as several egg salads and mini boiled eggs. A local market even offered a turkey loaf stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and pickled carrots (pictured below).
• Dulce de leche: I tried this flavor in yogurt, ice cream, candy, cookies, and a waffle, and I was never disappointed. Pictured below is a dulce de leche waffle filled with chocolate from WaflesSur in San Telmo. Back in Buffalo, I continue to enjoy my supply of alfajores—shortbread cookies filled with dulce de leche and sometimes covered in chocolate. These treats are found in pretty much any café or market, and taste best paired with a nice café con leche or cortado (coffee with a little milk).
Museo Evita
I’ve known all the words to “Don’t Cry for me Argentina” since my childhood sing-alongs to Andrew Lloyd Weber’s “Masterpiece Collection” CD, but I knew surprisingly little about Eva Perón before trekking to her homeland. Her museum is housed in a former shelter for low-income women and children in Palermo, created in 1948 by the Eva Perón Foundation. In Perón’s words, “The poor are not cared for out of mercy or commiseration, but because they are also Argentine citizens who find themselves in despair, and who are as much worthy of attention as the rest of the citizenry” (Eva Perón, 1949). These days, the museum houses photographs, writings, and, of course, some of Evita’s dresses (pictured below). Among other causes, Eva Perón championed women’s suffrage (achieved in 1947), and founded the Women’s Peronist party.
Buenos Aires by Bike
One of the best (and scariest) things I did while in BA was a bike tour organized by La Biceleta Naranja (the Orange Bicycle) through BA’s lakes and woods. The tour started in Palermo and weaved through Parque Tres de Febrero, a 62-acre city park with beautiful rose gardens (El Rosedal) and artificial lakes; El Monumental (River Plate Stadium), home of the 1978 World Cup; and BA’s (very small) Chinatown. The true fun was dodging taxis, motorcycles, buses and pedestrians while winding through the city’s crowded and cobble-stoned streets. Now that I’ve survived, I can honestly say this experience should not be missed. And that you should ask for a helmet.
Dracula, El Musical
Another highlight of my trip was catching the production of Dracula at Teatro Astral on Avenida Corrientes, BA’s Broadway. Of course, the show was entirely in Spanish and I caught only a few words: Muerto (dead), for example, and amor (love) were often repeated. Nonetheless, we caught the gist of the show, and the music and staging was wonderful. Plus, you can buy kettle corn (for $2.50!) and other refreshments to enjoy during the show. Broadway, take note!Art and architecture
I could (and did) spend hours wandering the city, staring up and around at all the beautiful buildings: the School of Law of the University of Buenos Aires, the Corte Suprema de Justicia de la Nacion (the Supreme Court), the Congress building, and the stunning residences in Belgrano, to name a few. I also loved getting lost in La Recoleta Cemetery, a city within the city of intricate statues and mausoleums. A few of my favorites are pictured below.
Of course, the true highlight of my trip was spending time with Caitlin, the best host, tour guide, cook and translator I could hope for. It was great to meet Caitlin’s friends, all of whom were so welcoming and tolerated my high-school-level Spanish, and to get a little taste of Caitlin’s life as a porteña. Thanks again Caitlin!
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